I went to Puerto Rico for New Year’s this year. I had never been before, and it was burning a hole in my bucket list. I was dying to get there.
When we decided to go, one of the women I was going with told me about Rincon, the surf town in the northwest of the island. I immediately signed up for surf lessons.
It has been years since I last surfed, but I was focused on getting back on a board.
It was a lot harder then I remembered. The paddling turned my arms into spaghetti. The rocks under the water make my legs look like purple eggplants. The surf rash turned my belly into hamburger. (I must be hungry as I write this!!)
But, it was also so much more rewarding than I remembered. I earned every wave I caught. Each ride was a celebration. Every time I made it back out after seemingly endless paddling was a triumph. The turtle that swam by my board was a miracle.
It is clear: I am not a natural surfer. But without any doubt: I am a surfer.